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Even though it is 2018, the world still seems to experience political issues that are not spoken of, hidden under a thousand locks. There is still a war situation between Russia and Ukraine, and each side wants to prove one’s wrong. For some small cities, it has created a crucial situation and changed the lifestyle of locals forever. For capitals like Kiev and Moscow, nothing has changed except from the fact that people living in these cities cannot visit one another as they are considered enemies.

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Whether or not people support the situation, facts are facts – it is hazardous to travel to Ukraine if you are Russian. The interview with Ivan Frolov, a 25-year-old designer from Kiev, had to happen over Skype and not in person. The conversation took place at 7 pm connecting two countries at war.  The designer looked very young and very professional wearing an indigo blue suit with a grey shirt under as he was sitting in his studio corner that allowed me to overview the rest of the space. A spacious white studio was full of tables and mannequins surrounded by many small-framed images handing on the walls.

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“I don’t think I ever decided that provocative designs are going to define my aesthetics,

it was an intuitive choice"

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“I was lucky enough not to even be in doubt when making a career decision. I drew my first dress on the candy packaging,” says Mr. Frolov, after graduating from Kiev State University, I had no other choice but create my brand. It was something I always knew I’d do.”Ivan talked very moderately, thinking about every word he says. When talking about the creative process, the designer indicated he always takes part in every stage of the process as he identifies himself as an engineer, technician and only then as a designer.“During the process, I usually need to think through every single detail myself, come up with new techniques and only then show it to my team to improve everything. Yet, it is important for me to take part in the whole design process,” he mentioned.

 

The logo of the brand is an anatomic heart. Small silver hearts are sewn in brand’s underwear that serves an antiseptic role. In ready-to-wear items, there are also hand-sewed or laser imprinted hearts.  Why heart? Because it does the most important functions such as blood functioning. “Frolov” fashion brand is one of those that stay true to their concepts and philosophy and do not follow the trends; it is only the responsibilities zones that migrate and expand. This year the brand celebrates the fifth anniversary. Talking about the core ideas of the designs was a quite a touching theme to the creative mind behind those. Every collection presented by the brand runs a provocative sexual theme, which the designer refers to as “intelligent provocation.” 

 

“I don’t think I ever decided that provocative designs are going to define my aesthetics, it was an intuitive choice,” says Ivan Frolov “in Ukraine this type of niche designs is not exploited, and I feel even more confident and organic in creating something using these aesthetics. We are not screaming of “sex,” it is a balance between vulgar and sensibility.”

 

"His financial situation in secret yet it is rumored that he was sponsored

by his wealthy family that allowed him to open a brand at the age 19"

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The customers really seem to feel this fine line between the styles. The ideal women that purchases brand’s clothes are a confident sexually exposed persona ready to give 100% to her men. “Our clients always tell me stories like ‘Ivan, I was wearing a bra of yours, and it was the best night of my life!’” explains the designer. Designing was never there just for the sake of creating clothes to Frolov. It all starts with a thought; an idea which the designer looks at from all possible angles, making continuous research and notes, collecting references and presenting mood boards to later show to his team so they can fully understand the journey behind the collection. According to Frolov, it helps the team really feel the mood if they can see the journey from day 1.

 

“I will never forget working on F/W 2017 collection that was presented at ‘Mistetskogo arsenal’ building, a National Arts Museum in Kiev. The models were walking while young boys were singing “Slavsya” and “Ivan Bogoslov” as an accompaniment,” recalls Frolov “to make sure all the guests would hear the chorus, we had to take down one of the walls. That was very stressful as it was out of the budget planning.” Speaking of budget, the designer preferred to keep his financial situation in secret yet it is rumored that he was sponsored by his wealthy family that allowed him to open a brand at the age 19.

 

Just like any other brand based in Eastern Europe, “Frolov” wants to expand and attract more European attention towards brand’s work. Other plans include collaborating with a photographer Nan Goldin and to loan Xavier Dolan’s costumes for the movie.